Building a PC, Part VII: Rebooting

There’s one thing to be said about the Corsair 600T case in general: lose the 200mm fans! I found them to be quite wobbly low-quality units, and they produce an annoying noise at any useful speed. The top fan can be disconnected without much trouble, but the front one needs replacement.

Sadly there don’t seem to be other fans fitting the case as-is (with a 150mm square mount). I’m currently thinking about installing a pair of 120mm Coolink fans that I have sitting around and which are almost inaudible even at full speed.

The other annoying thing about the case is that it will produce loud cracking noises at the slightest temperature change, likely due to its weird mixed-material construction. So if you open a window, or start a game or application that increases power draw, things get loud for a while.

In retrospect, I really shouldn’t have bought it. Chances are that the plastic parts will turn rather more yellow than the painted metal over time.

My beef with high end chassis are the obnoxious cliche LEDs. Considering products that have them make me feel like sheeple, easily manipulated by the company’s marketing department. DO NOT WANT!

I’m also confused (see Per Zetterlund, above): did you go with the Seasonic X-760 or the Corsair 850w 80 Plus Gold PSU? One is mentioned in the article, the other is shown in the full list at the bottom.

So yeah, this case is not just “wide”. It’s friggin’ HUGE. I have an existing Antec case that isn’t too small and this white thing just dwarfs it. Seriously, it’s a good 6" longer from front to back, 3-4" taller, and 3-4" wider. (Plus because it’s rounded, it actually seems even less compact than that).

It’s a nice looking case and does seem well designed, and I guess it’ll be better for my fat hands and all, but just be forewarned. I did buy everything else here too though, just looked at your rig and needed a new computer and went for it.

Nice fightstick peeking out from the side there :wink:

Since you used your existing hard drives, did you have any problems with the OS detecting new hardware? I recall that in past years, WinXP required you to re-authorize when it detected a new motherboard. Did you have to re-authorize the OS or anything else, and if so, what did you have to do?

Hmm… In the age of more and more powerful laptops why do you choose to build a clunky desktop machine? Any particular reason?

If you do also use laptops - how do you sync work?

@Kevin O’Rourke
I have the same problem. 140mm Noctua is at the edge of the chasis and closing the side panel will cause it to make noise or stops it completly.

@Nicos Gollan
To keep the case quiet when the temperatur changes, release the screws around the side window a bit; the case metal and window plastic expand at different rates, and the screws are too tight from the factory, causing the cracking noise.

For those of you that buy/own this case (I have the all black one) and aren’t happy with needing to run the USB 3.0 cable from the inside/top of the machine through the back and into the USB 3.0 port on the motherboard, you can just buy one of these so you can connect it directly to the header on the motherboard itself and keep everything “inside” the case.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=103&cp_id=10314&cs_id=1031403&p_id=8162&seq=1&format=2

This reminded be of my new i7 build that I blogged about as well. I scored a 7.0 instead of 7.9 because I did not overclock and my Windows test would not even score when my SSD was the only drive; I had to add in my HDD as a secondary drive before it would score. Everything else scored 7.6 besides the drive. My main drive is a 128GB SATA II SSD. I did my entire project for under $1200. The costs go up exponentially when buying the larger SSDs or to get the extreme performance graphics cards, so I think I did well. Nice machine Jeff, and if you have a chance, check mine out as well:

My New Computer: A Developers Dream:
http://allen-conway-dotnet.blogspot.com/2011/06/my-new-computer-developers-dream.html

You sure can get the 2600k up to “much” more than 4.4GHz on air and still have stable temps.

You should be able to at least add another 1000Mhz, but you would need to get another CPU-cooler, looks like you could be able to fit a D14 cpu cooler in there, if you can, get one.

Here’s a picture on how I’ve arranged my fans, which reduced my temps by 10c:

It’s a really nice build though! :slight_smile:

This was such a good post and so perfectly timed that I used it as the basis to build almost the same exact system. It’s probably the best and most enjoyable build I’ve ever done. Except for one thing … that fracking OCZ SSD drive. Have you experienced any of the, almost daily, BSOD’s that many people have been experiencing with these disks?

For anyone interested you can review some of the issues here: http://www.ocztechnologyforum.com/forum/showthread.php?92097-If-you-are-having-BSOD-or-quot-Freezing-quot-with-your-Vertex3-Agility3-Solid3-drive-I-want-you-to-post-here

I finally removed my SSD and my system is comletely stable now. I hope a fix comes soon, but I’m not too hopeful.

Thanks for sharing this pretty useful information. I noticed that you’ve added a powerful PSU. I would like to share my finding - I’m also building a new system with the goal of using possibly the most high-techy things available today. One of my desires is to build a completely quiet system. With no moving parts whatsoever, if possible. So I bumped onto these “passive-cooling” PSU’s, the most powerful of them is at 500W - has just appeared on market and is not even available for purchase in Europe. So I chose one that I could get in here (http://www.techaddicts.net/reviews/zen400/zen400.html). I was afraid that with my setup of a Core I7 Extreme CPU, 24 gigs or RAM, 2 PCI-e SSD’s and a 4Gb Video card, I won’t have enough power from that PSU… So, last night I was walking around in Tesco, and I found a Watt electricity usage monitor socket, like this (http://www.amazon.com/P3-International-P4400-Electricity-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1316810429&sr=1-1) - I plugged it into my socket from where all goes into the comp. and the result (power consumption) was roughly 225W at peak (190W on average) and 22W lowest - that is including a UPS, a Dual Core with 4 SATA drives, and a 27" LED monitor… So this socket could be a useful thing for measuring power consumption :slight_smile: - It could also tell you how much you would pay for the electricity… (I’m not playing games on my computer though)